Sir John Hegarty on Wine
Why should someone in advertising buy a vineyard and become a winemaker? more...
The online companion, and archive, for our quarterly house publication Ideas Illustrated.
Accompanied by illustration from Jamie Portch. Enjoy this on the page in the latest issue.

Numerous studies show that moderate wine consumption is good for our health.
By moderate we mean two to three glasses per day. And the studies usually refer to red wine. This is most likely because red wine gets its colour from contact with the skin of the grape. And it's in the skins that you find polyphenols which seem to help prevent the build up of fatty deposits in the arteries. This results in fewer heart attacks.
Whatever we think of these studies, wine and all other alcoholic beverages are a luxury. We don't need them to survive (of course for surviving some social encounters they're essential) but in general, they're one of life's perks.
Not having enough to eat has a serious effect of our survival. Not having enough alcohol to drink does not. So how this luxury is produced should give us cause for concern.
Why should this interest you? Well, we can't go on depleting the planet's resources at the rate we're going. Taking out more than we put back is not a long term strategy for survival. Anyone with children, or anyone planning to have children in the future, needs to think beyond tomorrow's purchases. Sustainability and farming in a way that benefits the planet is going to be essential for our children and their children's future. The planet's resources are not infinite.
Which brings me back to wine. Do you ever wonder how that bottle of Argentinean Malbec finds its way onto the supermarket shelf for £6? It manages to do so because it has been industrially farmed, pouring endless chemicals into the land to ensure maximum output with minimal cost. Depleting the soil's natural resources.
Now I can just about buy the argument that that's the only way we can feed the world's burgeoning populating. Even if that's not sustainable in the long term. But your glass of wine? I'm afraid not. The solution is to only purchase organic or even better, bio-dynamically produced wine.
What do we mean by bio-dynamic? The principles of this method of farming were first articulated by Rudolf Steiner back in 1924. Essentially he said we should farm in harmony with nature, not against it. Working to the rhythms of the moon, creating a sustainable, self-nourishing system of feeding the soil. Toxic fertilisers and chemicals were banned. People don't realise most wine is made with fairly large doses of chemicals. It may have a picture of a nice chateau on the label but perhaps it would be more appropriate if it was a chemical plant. Sadly our EU food and drink regulations don't require wine to show what's in the bottle and the industry has fought hard to avoid doing so.
When bio-dynamics is practised it produces wine with more vivacity and flavour. The drawback? It costs slightly more to produce wine like this- like so many things in life, better is more costly. The answer therefore is to drink less, but to enjoy it more. What's the point of purchasing those organic vegetables if the wine you're enjoying them with is laced with chemicals.
So the next time you order a glass of wine make sure it's red and make sure you're also drinking to the health of the planet. Your children might just thank you.
As originally published in the 'Relocated' issue of Ideas Illustrated.